Mr Oil and Mr Vinegar have been to the far northern tracts known as Hendon, to eat genuine Pakistani food at the Original Lahore Restaurant. They find that the cooking here is, if possible, even better than at its famous sister restaurant in Whitechapel, the Lahore Kebab House.
MrV: That chap AA Gill once went all the way to Pakistan to review Pakistani food. It was just after the World Trade Centre was smashed to bits. Spent three days on a bus and then ate out of a lavatory in the mountains -- something like that. I expect he thought it was a clever thing to do but it would have been much cleverer to go to Hendon. How long did it take our driver to get us there?
MrO: About half an hour from Mayfair. Probably less time than it takes to get to the East End branch of the Lahore.
MrV: I think getting public transport would be a nightmare. It's at least a mile from the nearest tube station. And having a driver take you - a cab if you must - means it's easy to bring good booze rather than relying on the selection in that part of Hendon, which is not what you'd call a wine connoisseurs' paradise.
MrO: It's quite a treat going to a restaurant where you bring your own wine. It cuts such a vast amount off the cost of the exercise. And by the way, there is a supermarket round the corner which sells perfectly decent wine.
MrV: Perhaps, but not the sort of really special spicey Chiantis one wants with this type and quality of food. Still, I suppose most of the diners who use the place are local and don't know any better.
MrO: I wouldn't be so sure. People come from far and wide because of the rave reviews its had. It is quite widely regarded as the best Pakistanic restaurant in London. I agree and so obviously to lots of others. On a Saturday night the queue waiting to get in is huge.
MrV: How awful. I will never attend a restaurant where I can't book, and I won't stay if the time of the booking isn't honoured. That's why I think lunchtime is the time to go.
MrO: What about the food? I don't think I can fault it. The seekh kebab is the best I've had, beautifully spiced ground lamb pressed onto a kebab stick. It's quite sensational. And I loved those tandoori prawns. They were extraordinarily rich and succulent.
MrV: I also was very impressed by the vegetable samosa but my personal favourite is the grilled lamb chop. They smash the chops until they are almost flat, pounding the spices and so forth into the meat in the process. I think it is the richest, most delicious Asian lamb dish I've ever tasted.
MrO: The sag gosht and chicken biriyani main courses were fabulous as well.
MrV: Yes, they tasted very good and no doubt were spectacular compared to other restaurants' offerings but I come back to a point I've made before: across all Asian cooking, the starters are almost invariably better than the main courses. When I've had the delicious chops and the kebabs and the prawns, to be confronted with a big plate of lamb and spinach curry just puts me off.
MrO: I loved them and didn't feel at all overwhelmed. I must say that for a man of your physique to feel intimidated by a plate of curry and that excellent tandoori roti rather stretches the credulity. Why did you order them if you didn't want them?
MrV: I don't know. Force of habit, I suppose. The classical French construction of a meal - starter, mains, pudding - dominates our attitudes and it's very hard to shake off. I don't think Asians feast like that, given the choice. I think they have lots of little bits of everything. Next time, I'm just going to have a big selection of starters. I really am.
MrO: What about the pistachio and mango kulfi lollies for pudding?
MrV: An honourable exception to my new rule.
Mr Oil and Mr Vinegar ate papadoms, vegetable samosas, seekh kebabs, grilled lamb chops, tandoori prawns, sag gosht (lamb and spinach curry), chicken biriyani, tandoori roti and a kulfi lolly each plus mineral water at a total cost of about £60, not including the wine they brought with them.
Original Lahore Restaurant
148-150 Brent Street
Hendon
London NW4 2DR
+44 (0)208 203 6904
hendon@originallahore.com
www.originallahore.com
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
No comments:
Post a Comment