Mr Oil and Mr Vinegar have been to the bit of Pimlico where the residents claim they are in Belgravia, to sample Tinello, the latest restaurant backed by Giorgio Locatelli.
MrO: I have always liked Locatelli restaurants. Zafferano was excellent and when he fell out with the financial backers and had to leave it was rather a tragedy.
MrV: Tragedy is probably too strong a word for a cook moving from one kitchen to another. Anyway, from what I hear it did him a huge favour, as Zafferano had been so stressful he’d sacked dozens of staff.
MrO: The next one, Locanda Locatelli, has been a great success. I don’t know how he manages to achieve such a pleasant and peaceful atmosphere in the restaurant with all that aggression going on behind the kitchen door.
MrV: Probably something to with the location – a dreary no-man’s-land north of Marble Arch.
MrO: It’s true that you don’t see as many PR types hanging out there as often as you might expect.
MrV: I think they’re all scared because of the killing.
MrO: What killing?
MrV: Late 80s, the European boss of that American PR firm, Burson Marsteller, was stabbed to death in a room at the Churchill, which is the hotel where Locanda Locatelli is. I think most PR people are scared that any one of their clients might do the same to them at the drop of a hat, so they steer clear.
MrO: Hmmn, a slightly fanciful theory, I think, but congratulations on your long memory. Anyway, what did you think of Tinello?
MrV: I quite liked its predecessor, L’Incontro, but that was very expensive. This is an improvement in both price and quality of food, I believe.
MrO: Good Heavens. You’ve said something positive.
MrV: I have waited for ages for other than Spanish and Oriental restaurants to offer a starter consisting of several dishes – tapas, in effect – and Tinello has done it, so well done.
MrO: Yes, I like the idea of “Small Eats”, as they call it, instead of a one-dish starter – although they did those as well - and they were very good. I particularly liked the deep fried Sicilian prawns but the prosciutto, the crostini, the zucchini fritte – all very tasty and nicely executed.
MrV: Don’t say executed – makes me think of the Churchill again. My gurnard linguine was absolutely delicious – a very rich fishy flavour, which was surprising because gurnard can be a bit bland.
MrO: My paccheri pasta tubes were very good with nduja...
MrV: Hinduja? The Indian billionaire? Was he there?
MrO: ...no, nduja. Soft sausagey stuff. Very tasty. I told you this at the time. What’s happened to that great memory of yours?
MrV: I recall that the sorbet was pretty decent, but that the bottle of Barbera was a little unimpressive at £45. Still, apart from that it all seemed very reasonably priced and I will go again.
Mr Oil and Mr Vinegar ate six “Small Eats” as a starter followed by a pasta dish each and then sorbet. They drank a half bottle of Gavi, a bottle of Barbera, two glasses of limoncello, a glass of pudding wine and coffee, at a total cost of about £150.
Tinello
87 Pimlico Road
London
SW1W 8PH
Tel: +44 207 730 3663
info@tinello.co.uk
http://www.tinello.co.uk
Wednesday, October 5, 2011
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