Le Suquet, South Kensington

Mr Oil and Mr Vinegar have been to a favourite old haunt, Le Suquet in South Kensington.

MrO: I can’t shake the memory of this place in the 80s? It was full all the time, one of the most popular haunts in this part of London. That was when Jean-Yves Darcel of Le Beaujolais [see past reviews] was chef here.
MrV: Yes, it’s a pity they haven’t maintained that popularity. In those days the restaurant was ahead of its time but now, with the exception of the food, everything else seems a bit dated. It’s a pity because South Kensington has never been richer, stuffed to the gills with wealthy Russians and Americans who eat out at restaurants all the time. Perhaps they need to change the decor.
MrO: But I like the blue and white seaside restaurant theme, even if it is a bit tired.
MrV: Maybe it not the decor. Maybe it’s the service.
MrO: I thought they did well considering how few staff there are.
MrV: Possibly, but their staffing problems are hardly the concern of customers, are they? Anyway, it’s more than that. This place needs someone with confidence to give it a kick up the backside. Confidence is what brings the customers in.
MrO: You might have a point but then again look at Gordon Ramsay, Jean-Cristophe Novelli and Marco Pierre White...
MrV: ...Ha! The chicken stock promoter...
MrO: ...who all have more confidence than one can tolerate but have all had to shut restaurants – presumably not because they had too many customers.
MrV: Well, there’s something missing at Le Suquet, and no doubt about it.
MrO: It should certainly have had more than a dozen customers on a sunny Thursday lunchtime. But the food is so wonderful - and on the face of it very good value.
MrV: Yes, but the price creeps up with all the add-ons, doesn’t it. Perhaps that what keeps people away.
MrO: There weren’t any add-ons! None at all! You insisted on ordering six substantial starters between two of us.
MrV: The Belons oysters were irresistible – quite my favourite – but we had to have the frogs’ legs and the snails, too, for the full experience.
MrO: You scarcely touched the frogs’ legs.
MrV: The richness of it all was starting to get to me by then.
MrO: Which is why you also left the moules farcies. You over-ruled me why I suggested moules mariniere and then didn’t touch the dish you ordered.
MrV: I’d had a little too much garlic and butter by then.
MrO: There was no need for that when there is so much simply cooked seafood on the menu. It was the same with the palourde clams and the langoustine grilled in butter and herbs.
MrV: The clams were sensational. And I didn’t notice you holding back on any of it.
MrO: That’s because I can’t bear to see great food go to waste – unlike you.
MrV: Anyway, the Bailli de Suffren blanc was very fine – exceptional, in fact, at £30 a bottle. I like Provencal wine more and more. It fully deserved our repeated attention. I don’t know why I don’t use this place more often.
MrO: We must resolve to revisit Le Suquet soon.

Mr Oil and Mr Vinegar consumed six substantial starters but no main courses, two puddings, two bottles and a small carafe of wine, two Poire Williams and coffee at a total cost of £250.

Le Suquet
104 Draycott Avenue
London SW3 3AE
Tel: +44 207 581 1785

(Internet bookings not taken)
http://www.lesuquet.co.uk